Tools of the Trade: How To Choose a Cast Iron Skillet

When it comes to kitchen tools, cookware rarely gets better with age. However, cast iron pans are seemingly a weird exception to this rule. Not only are they generally very affordable, legend has it that if you treat them right and cook with them regularly, not only will they last for a literal lifetime&#;if not longer!&#;they'll actually improve with use.

But is this legend true? Do cast iron pans actually get better with age? And why are the pans of our grandparents&#;the kind that people scour basements, yard sales, thrift stores, and antique shops for&#;considered so superior to most modern pans fresh from the factory?

Note: Cooking equipment made from cast iron comes in many shapes and sizes, including cornbread molds, deep pots used for making stews or baking bread, and griddles. For the purposes of this conversation we focused on cast iron skillets that do not have an enameled coating.

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Different Types of Cast Iron Skillets

There are essentially three types of cast iron skillets: antiques, which date up until around the middle of the 20th century and include brands like Griswold and Wagner Ware; modern rough surface cast iron skillets made by companies such as

Are Antique Cast Iron Skillets Better?

According to Dennis Powell, owner and founder of the cast iron manufacturer Butter Pat Industries, the reason antique cast iron pans are so desirable is because, quite simply, they're superior products. The manufacturing processes of yore resulted in pans that were thinner, lighter, and smoother, which is why antique pans are a delight to hold and use, and why the surface is less bumpy (and thus more non-stick) than you'll find with the more common cast iron pans of today.

Modern cast iron skillets are manufactured using molds made of sand, similar to how they were made a century ago. The difference is that in olden days foundries used molds that were much larger and employed a process that was significantly slower and more labor intensive, which simply isn't cost effective anymore. They also used a much finer grained sand than is used today, which produced smoother pans. But that fine-grained sand exposed foundry workers to lung-damaging silica dust, and workplace safety regulations put in place by OSHA have made fine-grained sand casting a thing of the past.

What Should I Look for in an Antique Cast Iron Skillet?

First, place the pan on an even surface and see if it wobbles. It's not uncommon for older skillets to experience warping, or for the bottom of the pan to start "dropping out" (bowing in the center). Also skip pans that have significant pitting, any type of cracking, or major rust damage. (Minor surface rust can be removed with steel wool, but major rust damage is a deal breaker.) If the price is within your budget, antique pans are definitely worth adding to your kitchen.

What Should I Look for in a Modern Cast Iron Skillet?

Modern cast iron skillets are not all created using the same process, nor do they perform the same.

The heavy pans with a rougher surface that most cooks are familiar with, such as those made by Lodge, are great for searing and braising. Iron is a great heat retainer, and once you get it good and hot it'll stay that way without much temperature fluctuation. However, that heat retention also means that skillets like these are not particularly well suited for cooking things that require fine temperature control. The rougher surface also means that food is more prone to sticking, and is the reason that Lodge sells their pans pre-seasoned. The seasoning helps with releasability, but these should not be considered non-stick pans.

Skillets from companies like Finex and Butter Pat, on the other hand, have much smoother surfaces thanks to differences in manufacturing, and also have differences in weight.

Like Lodge, Finex makes hefty pans suitable for searing or braising. Both companies also use a subtractive method to polish the surface of their pans, meaning that any bumps or uneven patches are ground off until the surface is uniform. Unlike Lodge however, Finex pans have an extremely smooth surface, making them a great choice if you want to sear delicate proteins like scallops or fish without having to worry about them fusing to the cooking surface. It's not non-stick, but for a cast iron product it's closer than not.

Butter Pat's claim to fame is that its manufacturing process is not subtractive, meaning that they achieve their smooth surface purely through manufacturing and surface polishing. Butter Pat's pans are also much lighter than Lodge and Finex. This means that they're more suited to baking pies or casseroles and are not going to be quite as effective at searing or braising.

Lodge, and other brands that manufacture similar pans, are without a doubt the most affordable option.

How Do You Season a Cast Iron Skillet? (And What Is Seasoning Anyway?)

Seasoning is perhaps one of the least understood aspects of cooking with cast iron, something which understandably irks Powell, who says, "We've forgotten as a culture why smoothness makes a difference." According to Powell, when pans (like his) have a smooth surface, seasoning isn't explicitly necessary, because the act of seasoning exists solely as a way of compensating for the rough surface of common, modern cast iron skillets.

Imagine the surface of a cast iron pan as a series of mountains and valleys. "The seasoning fills in the valleys," says Powell. "When you scrape your tool over the top of it you're shoving the seasoning down into the valleys and slowly you're going to be leveling that material off to the tops of the mountains." It's having an even surface that helps to make the surface non-stick.

If you want to season a cast iron pan, apply a thin layer of neutral, high smoke point oil like vegetable, canola or soybean across the surface and bake at 400˚F for one hour. Avoid using rendered animal fat or olive oil though, as they may go rancid. If you're concerned about oil pooling inside the pan while it's seasoning, place the pan inside your oven upside down with a sheet pan underneath to catch any runoff. Regular use will also help to keep a pan seasoned.

How to Take Care of a Cast Iron Skillet

1. Clean your cast iron pan soon after using it as opposed to letting it sit around for days with food or liquid inside. And contrary to popular belief, don't be afraid to use a little soap. Soap will break down new fats and oils, but won't damage established seasoning.

2. If your cast iron skillet has food stuck to the interior that can't be removed with a sponge, try using a stiff-bristled brush or a scratch-proof nylon or silicone pan scraper. Seasoning is hardy, but it can be removed if you scrub too hard or use an abrasive tool.

3. Dry your pan thoroughly after washing and use a paper towel to apply a thin layer of neutral oil to the interior and exterior of the pan, which will protect the pan from ambient moisture.

4. Don't leave a cast iron skillet on a lit flame or inside a hot oven for too long unless you're actually cooking with it, as prolonged heat exposure for an empty pan can damage it.

5. Cast iron is sturdy, but it isn't invulnerable. Treat your pans with care and if you're using an antique pan, avoid dropping it or clanging it around too much. Antique pans are thinner and more prone to cracking than modern pans.

There are essentially three types of cast iron skillets: antiques, which date up until around the middle of the 20th century and include brands like Griswold and Wagner Ware; modern rough surface cast iron skillets made by companies such as Lodge ; and modern smooth surface cast iron skillets made by companies like Butter Pat Industries and Finex According to Dennis Powell, owner and founder of the cast iron manufacturer Butter Pat Industries, the reason antique cast iron pans are so desirable is because, quite simply, they're superior products. The manufacturing processes of yore resulted in pans that were thinner, lighter, and smoother, which is why antique pans are a delight to hold and use, and why the surface is less bumpy (and thus more non-stick) than you'll find with the more common cast iron pans of today.Modern cast iron skillets are manufactured using molds made of sand, similar to how they were made a century ago. The difference is that in olden days foundries used molds that were much larger and employed a process that was significantly slower and more labor intensive, which simply isn't cost effective anymore. They also used a much finer grained sand than is used today, which produced smoother pans. But that fine-grained sand exposed foundry workers to lung-damaging silica dust, and workplace safety regulations put in place by OSHA have made fine-grained sand casting a thing of the past.First, place the pan on an even surface and see if it wobbles. It's not uncommon for older skillets to experience warping, or for the bottom of the pan to start "dropping out" (bowing in the center). Also skip pans that have significant pitting, any type of cracking, or major rust damage. (Minor surface rust can be removed with steel wool, but major rust damage is a deal breaker.) If the price is within your budget, antique pans are definitely worth adding to your kitchen.Modern cast iron skillets are not all created using the same process, nor do they perform the same.The heavy pans with a rougher surface that most cooks are familiar with, such as those made by Lodge, are great for searing and braising. Iron is a great heat retainer, and once you get it good and hot it'll stay that way without much temperature fluctuation. However, that heat retention also means that skillets like these are not particularly well suited for cooking things that require fine temperature control. The rougher surface also means that food is more prone to sticking, and is the reason that Lodge sells their pans pre-seasoned. The seasoning helps with releasability, but these should not be considered non-stick pans.Skillets from companies like Finex and Butter Pat, on the other hand, have much smoother surfaces thanks to differences in manufacturing, and also have differences in weight.Like Lodge, Finex makes hefty pans suitable for searing or braising. Both companies also use a subtractive method to polish the surface of their pans, meaning that any bumps or uneven patches are ground off until the surface is uniform. Unlike Lodge however, Finex pans have an extremely smooth surface, making them a great choice if you want to sear delicate proteins like scallops or fish without having to worry about them fusing to the cooking surface. It's not non-stick, but for a cast iron product it's closer than not.Butter Pat's claim to fame is that its manufacturing process is not subtractive, meaning that they achieve their smooth surface purely through manufacturing and surface polishing. Butter Pat's pans are also much lighter than Lodge and Finex. This means that they're more suited to baking pies or casseroles and are not going to be quite as effective at searing or braising.Lodge, and other brands that manufacture similar pans, are without a doubt the most affordable option. Lodge's standard 10.25-inch skillet costs a mere $26.75 (and can frequently be found for less than $20), and its newly released premium, lighter Blacklock line is $60 for the same size. For comparison, Butter Pat's 10-inch "Heather" skillet is $195 and Finex's 10-inch skillet is $175. The price differential is because Lodge pans are made using an automated process, whereas Finex and Butter Pat pans are not.Seasoning is perhaps one of the least understood aspects of cooking with cast iron, something which understandably irks Powell, who says, "We've forgotten as a culture why smoothness makes a difference." According to Powell, when pans (like his) have a smooth surface, seasoning isn't explicitly necessary, because the act of seasoning exists solely as a way of compensating for the rough surface of common, modern cast iron skillets.Imagine the surface of a cast iron pan as a series of mountains and valleys. "The seasoning fills in the valleys," says Powell. "When you scrape your tool over the top of it you're shoving the seasoning down into the valleys and slowly you're going to be leveling that material off to the tops of the mountains." It's having an even surface that helps to make the surface non-stick.If you want to season a cast iron pan, apply a thin layer of neutral, high smoke point oil like vegetable, canola or soybean across the surface and bake at 400˚F for one hour. Avoid using rendered animal fat or olive oil though, as they may go rancid. If you're concerned about oil pooling inside the pan while it's seasoning, place the pan inside your oven upside down with a sheet pan underneath to catch any runoff. Regular use will also help to keep a pan seasoned.Clean your cast iron pan soon after using it as opposed to letting it sit around for days with food or liquid inside. And contrary to popular belief, don't be afraid to use a little soap. Soap will break down new fats and oils, but won't damage established seasoning.If your cast iron skillet has food stuck to the interior that can't be removed with a sponge, try using a stiff-bristled brush or a scratch-proof nylon or silicone pan scraper. Seasoning is hardy, but it can be removed if you scrub too hard or use an abrasive tool.Dry your pan thoroughly after washing and use a paper towel to apply a thin layer of neutral oil to the interior and exterior of the pan, which will protect the pan from ambient moisture.Don't leave a cast iron skillet on a lit flame or inside a hot oven for too long unless you're actually cooking with it, as prolonged heat exposure for an empty pan can damage it.Cast iron is sturdy, but it isn't invulnerable. Treat your pans with care and if you're using an antique pan, avoid dropping it or clanging it around too much. Antique pans are thinner and more prone to cracking than modern pans.

Cast iron has become trendy topic for amateur chefs recently. It seems that everyone I know suddenly has a cast iron skillet, wok, or dutch oven sitting proudly displayed on their stovetop at all times.

Growing up, my mom and grandmother had cast iron skillets that had been our family for who knows how long, which they used to make things like buttermilk biscuits, cornbread, and fried okra. This heritage cookware &#; which has been around for centuries &#; has made a comeback.

Cast iron&#;s main benefit is counterintuitive: It&#;s actually a poor conductor of heat. But what this means is that it retains heat well, even at high temperatures, so it heats evenly for searing, braising, campfire cooking, and even baking.

Our director of photography, Amos, owns &#;nearly 30 cast iron pieces.&#; So he seemed like the perfect person to ask, what&#;s the difference between cheap and expensive cast iron, and what&#;s the deal with common brands like Lodge versus luxury brands like Le Creuset?

Here&#;s what he found: He started with the cheapest possible three-piece set he could find on Amazon &#; something like this set from Utopia Kitchen, which includes a 6-, 8-, and 10-inch pan for under $25. The biggest difference between this bargain option and a higher-end, higher-price model is the finish: While the cheaper stuff tends to have a rough, sandpapery surface, the top-quality brands like Finex (whose 12-inch cast iron skillet goes for just under $200) produce glossy, smooth-polished products.

Cheaper brands have a rougher finish because they skip a step in the traditional manufacturing of cast iron cookware: the time-consuming grinding process that produces the ideal polish. While it&#;s possible to eventually achieve a similarly smooth finish through continued use and diligent seasoning, some people prefer not to have to do that work themselves, which is why high-end brands like Finex have a dedicated following.

Legacy vs. luxury

Lodge, a brand that has been a leader in cast-iron products for decades, might not be as recognizable as Le Creuset, but it&#;s perfect for those who are &#;just getting into cast iron.&#; The Lodge 10.25-inch Cast Iron Skillet, which was tested by Amos, is almost always on sale at Amazon for under $15. While this is a mass-produced line of cookware, it is U.S.-made and takes to seasoning well, meaning a dedicated owner could eventually own a glossy Lodge that might (emphasis on might) rival a Finex.

As for Le Creuset, it turns out that this colorful status cookware features a different variety of cast iron. It&#;s enameled. While enameled cast iron still makes a solid skillet &#; and Le Creuset in particular makes a great stovetop accent &#; it&#;s important to know that it won&#;t behave exactly the same as traditional cast iron. It&#;s suitable for cooking acidic foods, like tomato-based sauces, which will pit traditional cast iron and create undesirable reactions. But you definitely won&#;t want to throw a Le Creuset dutch oven on a campfire like you would a Lodge cast iron model.

What&#;s the deal with seasoning the pan?

You&#;ll notice that most cast iron comes &#;pre-seasoned.&#; All cast iron requires an ongoing seasoning process that tends to be a bit more involved at the beginning, but buying pre-seasoned cookware makes things easier.

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Says Amos, &#;Seasoning is a rite of passage for cast-iron owners, and it&#;s the reason why cast iron gets better with age.&#; The idea is that fats bond with the metal to fill the micropores and create the desired smooth finish, meaning that, eventually (or immediately, if you invest in the top-of-the-line cast iron) you&#;ll be able to cook with less oil.

To season, add a high-smoke point oil &#; most people recommend avocado oil (if you don&#;t mind the strong taste) or special cast iron oil &#; and heat the skillet on the stovetop to distribute the oil over the surface. Next, put it in the oven at about 400 degrees Fahrenheit for an hour. Then continue to re-oil and repeat the process, leaving yourself with a seasoned cast iron.

Can you wash a cast iron skillet?

You shouldn&#;t. Instead of soap, it&#;s best to wipe with a kitchen towel, coarse kosher salt, and warm water. This way, you don&#;t take off any loose oils that haven&#;t polymerized.

However, it&#;s critical to dry your cast iron completely &#; really, totally dry. Take a kitchen towel and get it as dry as possible, then, for good measure, set it over a lit stove eye for a minute or two just to make sure. Leave it with a light layer of any type of oil for storage between uses.

Shopping list for beginners

7-Piece Seasoned Cast Iron Cookware Set: Best cast iron set for beginners who are just starting their collections. Includes the basics: a skillet, pan, griddle, mitt, potholder, and two scrapers.

Caron & Doucet Cast Iron Seasoning & Cleaning Oil: Best oil for seasoning your cast iron as well as for coating it between uses.

Finex 5 Qt. Cast Iron Dutch Oven with Lid: Best cast iron for people who only want the best. This is an heirloom-quality dutch oven with a smooth-as-glass surface. The brand also makes a skillet and a grill pan, among other things.

Camp Chef National Parks Cast Iron Set: Best cast iron for campers. This skillet and dutch oven are durable enough to be put directly on campfire coals.

The New Cast Iron Skillet Cookbook: 150 Fresh Ideas for America&#;s Favorite Pan: Best cookbook for people looking to get into cast iron. It includes traditional as well as new recipes to prepare in a cast iron pan.

This story was edited at 12:04 p.m. on Sunday, Feb. 2, to clarify that Le Creuset is enameled cast iron.

Sarah Pitts is a writer for BestReviews. BestReviews is a product review company with a singular mission: to help simplify your purchasing decisions and save you time and money. BestReviews never accepts free products from manufacturers and purchases every product it reviews with its own funds.

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Originally Published: January 26, at 1:20 PM EST

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