For more hydraulic gateinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
I'm brand new to tractors and have depended on my neighbor to bushhog and drop hay for me. I've recently bought myself an old tractor that is an Allis Chalmers D17 series 3. It's all original parts and is pretty simple, so my question is how do I change from the front loader hydraulics to the 3pt on the back so I can my lift and lower my bushhog and hay fork?
Picture is of the back of my tractor if that helps at all.
uploads/19149/Tractorback.jpg
Edited by KKim666 - 21 Nov 2018 at 8:54pm
Hello everyone!I have a, hopefully, super simple question about hydraulics.
Sponsored Links
Others will know for sure, but I suspect you remove the quick disconnect of the black hose that goes to the loader cylinders. On my D-14 it worked that way. BEFORE you do though, make up some 'spacers' to keep the loader from dropping to the ground. I used a couple pieces of 2by2 steel angle, welded into a U-channel about 8" long. They sit between the cylinder tops and the loader frame. When you lower the loader, they keep it from going all the way down. You can also make them from wood like 2by4s. The 'trick' is to get the right length so that he loader bucket has good ground clearance,but no so high as to cover the rad too much.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
You will have to install a shut off valve in the hose at the coupler.It has to be for HIGH PRESSURE! That system runs 3500 psi.Then you raise loader,shut off valve and use the rear lift as you wish.Both run off same pressure supply.
Would need to add a tank, valve and pump, on the front of the crank, to do it right. As set up, the loader fills with oil, so the loader lifts all the way, then the lift arms move up. Cheap way to do it, is to put a gate valve, on the loader input hose, so you lift the loader to a chosen height, then close the gate valve, and the arms will go up...
SteveM C/IL wrote:Beat me to it by 2 minutes
Do I need another hose the goes from the opposing side of the valve or is it just a valve between the end of the hose and where it goes into the tractor, you turn it to shut it off and to divert power from the front loader, and the rear hitch hydraulics will work?
Please be kind, haha...I am at education level 101. Been having trouble finding diagrams and kits online...probably due to incorrect vernacular.
Okay, so we understand we have to put the loader up and put in a valve...We're a little nervous about popping the collar off the hose that goes into the back of the tractor (See pic). How do we go about pulling that off and being sure that the pressure won't blow it off and potentially maim us.
To prevent yourself from getting hurt or worse yet dead. You must let the pressure off the line before disconnecting it. The loader and three point operate off the same hyd circuit. Which ever has the least resistance will go up to the stop before the other moves. You could cut two matching angle iron pieces to use as ram stops. Raise the loader up lay the ram stops on the Rams put two stainless screw hose clamps on each angle iron and let the loader down. When it stops going down because the angles are holding the loader up then you can disconnect the hose. Now the three point will operate normally because it's no longer providing pressure for the loader. Long term you should put a high pressure selector valve between the two . Or add a high pressure shut off valve to the loader line. With a shut off valve it'll work the same as disconnecting the hose only you won't need to put the ram stops in. A selector valve will allow you to alternate between the two and the not in use item will stay where it is when you change the valve. A front mount pump and complete second hyd system is the ideal way to use both but it requires more work time and money.
When I had the Freeman loader on 'Troy', the hose going to the loader had a 'quick coupler' on the end. I'd raise loader,put blocks as 'ram stops', lower, shut off tractor, get off, release coupler, get back on, start up, drive away. Never,ever had any safety issues.
For more information, please visit dam construction companies.
Now 'Paris', another D-14, has a SERIOUS plumbing issue. PO had a regular water valve in the 'loader hose take off' coupler !!!That was dealt with PDQ !
Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
Frequency asked questionas about Hydraulic Gate Operators:
Are hydraulic openers self contained?
Yes there are no external parts, the hydraulic pump is built into the unit, only an electrical cord comes out from the opener.
Why is a hydraulic opener more powerful?
Because hydraulics in general are more powerful than a gear driven opener built into the same opener enclosure.
Why is a hydraulic opener more durable?
By it's nature, Hydraulic operation has fewer moving parts, that's why it's used universally on all heavy construction equipment.
Does a hydraulic opener require more maintenance?
No, it requires less, just check the fluid level and make sure that the opener is operating properly.
Are hydraulic openers more expensive than mechanical openers?
No, they cost about the same, but don't compare the cheaply made mechanical openers to quality hydraulic or mechanical openers.
What's wrong with the cheaper mechanical openers?
They work for up to 1 or 2 years and break, too expensive to fix you end up having to replace the unit.
Why should I do a 120 volt installation instead of a 12 volt?
Because 120 volts are necessary for a powerful operation, 120 volt AC motors are by far the most durable.
Can Hydraulic openers handle larger gates?
Yes, the SEA full tank openers can open gates up to 23 feet!
What is the duty factor for an opener?
The better the opener the more cycles per hour rating it will have, cheap openers have low cycles per hour ratings because they overheat.
Do hydraulic openers work well in cold climates?
Yes, hydraulic openers work at lower temperatures than mechanical openers whose gear grease can lose it's lubricating properties.
What if I have an opener installation in a windy area?
You need to plan for a larger opener to handle wind loads especially if you have a solid gate.
Can I easily replace a mechanical opener with a hydraulic opener?
A hydraulic opener will mount into a prior mechanical installation without any special requirements.
What is UL 325 or ETL?
It's a listing that is required by some Building Departments, with includes additional safety devices.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of flow control gate. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.