I will be raising hogs so the corn will be for feed, not for sale. I have both bins and cribs available for storage. I have an auger but not an elevator. I will be saving back seed to plant so having some dried on the ear might be good and I can grind the ears cob and all. I have a small grain head on a JD45 but no corn head and I am told they are a bear to change out.
So...should I be looking for a combine or a corn picker to harvest maybe a maximum of 100 acres of corn? I want to keep my equipment maintenance costs to a minimum so I am leaning toward a two row picker. I can likely pay the same price for that as for a 105 model (JD) combine I have been looking at.
Suggestions?
Edited by MoPete - 30 Dec at 5:49am
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You could harvest corn with the grain head. Try to cut just below the ears but you will run a lot more of the corn stalks and leaves through the combine and probably flush more corn out the back.
It might be more profitable to hire the harvest with modern equipment done in a day or two than to keep up with the repairs of rotting parts in an antique combine with limited parts availability. I don't think Deere keeps those parts on hand anymore, I know and parts are disappearing from the Shoup catalog as the more modern machines do a better job. 100 family combine parts are getting rare, but when used they wear and break too.
Or fence the field and let the pigs do the harvest over the winter. They will eat stalks, leaves, and corn.
Gerald J.
I wouldnt save the corn for seed to plant. It wont do any good. Hire it done and put it in the bin if you have a way to put air on it.
sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
My concern with hiring it done is the actual getting it done as folks are having a hard enough time getting their own harvest in. Also, there is the issue of cross contamination of their type of corn (conventional, GMO), with the open pollinated, organic I grow.
And you say don't save the seed, as it won't do any good...I use open pollinated Reid's Yellow Dent, which is an heirloom variety competitive in yield with most anything from Pioneer, etc according to the few field trials I have seen which have compared OP with hybrid.
Hogging it down is an option I have considered, as is baling the stalks, ears and all. But that presents me with management issues, also. Mainly that I need to gather them towards the house for access to water and electricity to keep water thawed, etc. My plan, as well, is to keep the feed in storage ahead of the hogs, if that makes sense. Bottom line is I think I need the availability of harvesting equipment.
I am old fashioned and I still like ear corn. The advantage of ear corn is no drying costs. Put it in the crib and take it out when you are ready to grind.
The disadvantages are that ear corn is a lot more work. It obviously doesn't flow well, so there is a lot more labor involved in the operation. Pickers, with husking beds, are getting hard to find.
Shelled corn is much easier to handle, but it has to be dried. Transportation and drying costs can add up quickly, if it has to be transported off the farm for drying.
Have you thought of harvesting high moisture ear corn with a forage harvester with a snapper head and a recutter screen and storing it in an Ag Bag? I know there is a lot more trash in the corn, but I can't see why it wouldn't work well for hogs.
MoPete,
I pick with a NI 2 row, and run corn with our F2. I agree with the previous post that the ear corn can dry on its own in the crib. We then grind that for our cattle and horses. However we let some corn stay in the field as long as possible so it can dry down naturally, as we have no drying facility on the farm. We grind this for the pig feed to get the right protein contents. My FIL is old fashioned, so ear corn gets ground for cows and horses, and shell corn gets ground for pigs and chickens. It seems to work for us. But I am patient enough to finish the harvest late....Still have 40 acres out.
Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
, , , 190, D14, DA , AA , , Gleaner F2
I still pick some. If you decide to pick make sure you have some place that will buy your extra.
Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.
WF owner wrote:
Edited by MoPete - 29 Dec at 7:05am
The extra labor is not too much of an issue as I am doing so few acres. But tell me more about the husking beds. I am not familiar with that.I think that would be very cost prohibitive for me, though likely a good option if I were planning for more acres across which to spread the cost.
Johnwilson_osf wrote:
Edited by MoPete - 29 Dec at 6:59am
Yes, I definitely can leave it in the field and let it dry. My harvest time will be so minimal that I should have no issues there. And I have heard nothing but good about the NI pickers.
Joe(OH) wrote:How long will it keep in a crib? That's definitely an issue although I suppose I could just buy more feeder pigs if I had extra. I really do want the feed ahead of the hogs.
Gerald J. wrote:Never heard of that and I will definitely experiment with that. Thanks.
Corn will last a while in the crib. We typically go through two cribs a year. They are refilled each fall. However, last year, we took corn out of a neighbors crib, that had been there three years. The outside had been picked over good by the birds, but the inside was a clean and yellow as the day we picked it.
Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
, , , 190, D14, DA , AA , , Gleaner F2
NI pull type corn picker (so you don't tie up a tractor forever). It will store indefinitely if you have a good roof on your crib and pick it below 20%
Thanks
Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson
where in MO are you?
What is your budget?
Do you mind if the combine is a gasser?
I personally would keep an eye out for a good Gleaner machine, the 105 seemed a little crude in my opinion.
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
DO NOT USE BIN RUN SEED OR OPEN POLLINATED SEED! Even a close out non GMO will out yeild either other option. You would be better off calling a few seed dealers and asking for their cheapest seed in your maturiy. Ear corn is ok if you do 10-20 acres 100 would get old quick. When my grandfather farmed he would pic two wagons first thing in the morning after milking. He then would slowly unload them to make sure he got every husk. In Missouri you should be able to get corn pretty dry in the field. My thoughts are get some sort F or K 100 acres with a K was not the end off the world. I have learned that the cheapest initial option can cost more very quickly. Hogs don't really like the extra ruffage from the cobs either.
and MFWD, , 3 's, 160, , 175, heirloom D17, Deere
100 acres of corn to pick is a lot. We do 10 acres with a one row picker and it takes two days to do:)
I am in ne Mo, in Knox County and I prefer gas. There is a 105 a quarter mile from me I could get for $750 more or less, ready to change fluids and shell corn. I also looked at two JD270 2 row pickers at the same place. Terrible shape.
Edited by MoPete - 30 Dec at 6:00am
Do you have personal experience with OP seed?
LSilseth wrote:100 would be the maximum I would want to do. I have combined with newer equipment but not with what I can afford. I have never used a picker. How comparable would a two row picker be with a 4 row like a 105?
WC wrote:that was what I had in mind if I went the picker route. I don't see myself getting in too big of a hurry so I should be able to let it dry better than 20%. If I went the mounted route, how difficult is it to mount and ... dismount?
If we had a two row I would do up to 50 acres but not 100. I hope you find what you are looking for.
Thanks. I do too.
Mounting and dismounting difficulty all depends on make and model of picker and tractor. With a 2 row picker expect to do anywhere from 1 to 3 acres an hour depending on conditions. I enjoy picking ear corn but if you're using a mounted picker its a dirty job.
get a pull type picker if you are going that route. or a self propelled. you can still get most parts for the new idea pickers i know. the other thing to think about is to buy multiple of the same model so you will have parts.
I love to pick corn, I have a New Idea 2 row narrow picker (326) but don't pick much anymore. I would stay away from a mounted picker, They are wide row pickers and in case of problems or too much corn you might have a problem finding a wide head combine to shell the remainder if needed. The last couple of mounted pickers in the area stay on the tractor year round and as stated they are very dirty. I've had 4 New Idea pickers and 2 Olivers since the late 70's, the Olivers picked cleaner and shelled less but parts were harder to find. HTH...Harvey
Go with a pull type corn picker for now. If you have too much earn corn, just rig up a gravity wagon that feeds your JD45 combine. That way you could shell the excess. You could bin it or haul it away. If you are patient, you may find an older 2 or 3 row corn head & combine package deal at auction?? They usually go cheap around here.
How good does the Reid's Yellow Dent stand through storms during late fall & winter??
OP corn is really making a comeback! I think there is a large dealer in MO for it as there are others across the country! they are trying to get away from Monsanto! and I think there is a pull type picker coming up at auction this week....i'm thinking in KS, will try to find it and let ya'll know! oh...and I've been thinkin bouts the OP corn too for this year!
o-k...found it...it's the jan 21st sale on BIGIRON.com...pics and descriptions under "harvest equipment"...3 dif units 2 pull type and one mounted with tractor. at Topeka, Ks.
grinder220 wrote:Any idea about a JD227? I found 2 yesterday at a neighbor's. Pretty poor condition but so was all my equipment when I brought it home. So, maybe 20 +/- acres a day is a reasonable estimate? I assume that assumes the picker running full time with someone else emptying the wagons?
bobkyllo wrote:Thanks. That makes good sense.
A combine harvester is a long-term capital investment and is typically the most expensive machine on any farm. When buying a secondhand combine, it&#;s critical to understand what to look for, and missing essential details could mean getting less value than you initially expected. Choosing the wrong combine or header for your needs could be a costly waste of resources and significantly affect your annual yield.
Many farm owners and managers opt to buy a used combine rather than a new model due to the significant cost savings. Although purchasing a new machine has clear benefits, acquiring a used one can save you a lot of money without compromising performance. But to ensure you still get the results you need at harvest time, choosing the right used combine is essential.
A thorough inspection and due diligence prior to purchase will ensure you&#;re getting your money&#;s worth on a major machinery purchase. Before inspecting any specific model, have a good idea of precisely what you need from a new machine, so you always have a benchmark for comparison. You&#;ll want to thoroughly review the service and maintenance history of the harvester and perform a detailed inspection of its physical condition.
Buying a used combine is a lot easier when you know what you&#;re looking for. This article covers the major features to consider when you&#;re out inspecting a used combine.
1. Choose the Right Brand and Model For Your Needs
It&#;s best to check out several brands and models of harvester before you settle on one &#; and when you decide to give them a look, it should ideally be in person. Some problems aren&#;t evident until you see the machine in person or hear the engine running. If you&#;re unable to inspect yourself, have a trusted person evaluate the machine on your behalf or ensure you&#;re buying from a trustworthy used machinery dealership.
You can opt to purchase the complete package together or source front and header separately, depending on what is available on the secondhand market. Keeping your options open during the search maximises your options without relying on finding a local seller with an identical set-up to your own.
When choosing the right brand and model, allow plenty of research time. Consider things such as local dealership availability, reliability and support services, as you&#;ll want to have your combine serviced regularly. Opt for tried and tested brands and think about whether you can easily access replacement parts if you need them.
With a limited budget or financing challenges to work with, it can be tempting to aim for the lowest price point. Still, you should always consider whether the features and capacity will tick all the boxes for long-term efficiency.
This is where it is helpful to have clear targets and establish a benchmark to guide your machinery investment. If it won&#;t satisfy your farming needs, even if the price is right, that machine is no bargain. Will it be suitable for your crop and terrain? If you&#;re growing corn or soybeans, an incompatible header will impact what kind of value you&#;re getting from an otherwise lucrative deal. Is it compatible with your current machinery or precision ag equipment, and will you be able to make any upgrades you&#;re planning? What other changes will you need to make to utilise a new header type, and is the bigger picture still delivering cost savings?
2. Is It the Right Size, Rate and Capacity?Although farming is all about profitability, you can only accomplish this with efficiency and productivity. Optimal work organisation and machine utilisation will help you reduce costs. That&#;s why having the correct sized equipment for your farm&#;s needs is essential &#; not so large that running costs are excessive, and not too small to suit your requirements in a few years.
A combine&#;s class can be deceiving &#; a higher class does mean more horsepower but doesn&#;t necessarily represent the level of performance you can expect. Is your secondhand harvester a good investment if out-of-date features will undermine grain quality or production? On the other hand, many older machines will offer fantastic performance or can be retrofitted for less than the cost of a new combine.
A large high-volume combine can even be a disadvantage if it&#;s not the correct fit for your crop. A smaller machine that can comfortably handle an average crop load can often be better than an oversized combine. Fuel efficiency and GPS guidance systems are also significant factors that influence how cost-effective a harvester is to run long-term.
A machine&#;s capacity should also never be more than what the front can process. And what is its unloading rate? All of these factors should be considered when looking at any potential used combine purchase. When you have a good understanding of your harvest logistics, these considerations should guide your investment.
Be sure to check the serial number of any used combine you&#;re interested in and do your research. Firstly, this ensures you&#;re working with accurate details, as it&#;s not unheard of for a seller to make a mistake when listing a machine for sale. This tactic also allows you to compare market prices for used harvesters and find reviews and recommendations.
3. Service History and Maintenance LogWhen you are looking to buy a used combine, make sure to check its service history or that the seller provides you with a reliable maintenance log. Maintenance directly impacts the life expectancy of any equipment, and once you&#;ve purchased a new piece of machinery, you inherit any neglect or shoddy maintenance performed by the previous owner.
Work orders, inspection lists and other supporting documents should also be readily available &#; and if an owner is reluctant to produce them, that&#;s worthy of some more intense questioning. These documents can give you valuable insight into how often a combine has been serviced and what type of repairs have been done.
For instance, what are the oil change intervals for this machine? Are the lubricants used synthetic or petroleum? Has the previous owner used OEM lubricants or the incorrect variety altogether? Are any replacement parts OEM or aftermarket, and who carried out the repair?
Pay close attention to whether any repairs have been made proactively (eg. the replacement of wear parts) or whether the machine is never looked over until something has broken down. Ideally, you&#;ll want to see signs of proactive maintenance and upkeep.
Knowing this information will also help you anticipate the problems you may encounter if you commit to buying that machine. A vague maintenance history may not be a reason to skip the purchase altogether, but it may affect the price you&#;re willing to pay.
4. Verify Machine HoursIf you are looking for more details, kindly visit Corn Harvester Machine.
When buying a used combine harvester, you should also check its operational records. For example, how many hours has that specific unit clocked, and does it match the verbal history the owner has given?
Although sellers should immediately relay this information to clients, some don&#;t volunteer the details themselves. Making a point to ask the seller these questions is vital when deciding to make a major equipment purchase.
There&#;s no exact number that is &#;too many hours&#; on a used combine &#; the main factors are how well it&#;s been maintained, the conditions it&#;s stored under and the way it&#;s been used throughout its lifetime. Even a low-hour combine can be poor value if it&#;s been heavily abused and ill-maintained, while high-hour machines carefully maintained and upgraded as needed may have plenty more to give.
Varying soil conditions and crops have a major impact on a combine&#;s lifespan, so it is critical to ask for the machine&#;s full backstory and verify information on how (and where) it&#;s been used. A key goal of the thorough physical inspection is to gauge whether the seller&#;s story holds water or if the physical signs tell a different story from what they&#;re giving you.
Also compared the combine&#;s engine hours and separator hours. The ratio between them can indicate how the machine has been used (and whether the seller has been honest about it). If the combine is always used without a grain cart or has clocked plenty of road time, the numbers on a dual hour meter will be further apart.
If engine hours are much higher, you&#;ll want to look more closely at parts like the drive train and other components that have faced more lifetime wear and tear.
If a machine has been significantly refurbished or had many parts replaced, a higher number of engine hours may not accurately reflect the condition or remaining lifespan of the harvester, so balancing this factor with the maintenance history gives a broader picture.
Before getting into the more detailed inspection, take a good look at the combine&#;s exterior first. If the previous owner(s) neglected to care for that unit, the condition of the paintwork and visible components can be a dead giveaway.
If you have been farming for some time, you can probably tell a good machine from a bad one just by looking at the exterior. However, if you&#;re not an experienced buyer, consider bringing someone who&#;s an old hand with used machinery to get a second opinion. In fact, two pairs of eyes are usually better than one and maximise your chances of catching any concerns early.
An in-person inspection becomes crucial at this point; having pictures of the combine may help, but seeing it up close and in person is always better.
To check the exterior, go around the unit and see if there is any damage or rust. Do the same with the belts, chains and sprockets. What&#;s the paint condition like? Are there visible leaks or damage? A new coat of paint can hide many sins at first glance, so inspecting components more closely can indicate whether there are issues hidden below the surface.
6. Check Inside the CabWhen you&#;re done checking the exterior, it&#;s time to inspect the inside of your target unit. Like the exterior inspection, you can get a feel for the combine&#;s condition just by sitting in the cab.
How does it look? If it&#;s generally clean with little to no damage, you can assume the machine has been well-maintained. A few worn areas are fine for a used combine, as long as it doesn&#;t impact the function or safety.
A cab should also be comfortable since harvesting will require you to be sitting in it for long periods. If it&#;s not, check to see if you&#;re able to make improvements &#; even minor annoyances can become big frustrations with time.
While sitting in the cab, test the controls and instrumentation to ensure everything is in working order. You should also check other features such as the receiver, displays, cameras, and any other technology installed. Are they still working correctly? These accessories are costly to replace, so you don&#;t want them included in the asking price if something isn&#;t working. Make sure any feature you&#;re paying for is actually included.
Many used combines include factory-installed or aftermarket electronic systems. It&#;s a good idea to do your research on any precision ag equipment or guidance systems bundled with your combine, especially as older systems might not be usable or kept up to date.
If they are installed but no longer supported by the manufacturer, it can be an enormous pain point for years to come. Verify with the seller and manufacturer that what you have in your target unit is still supported, can be upgraded or is suitable for retrofit.
7. Check the HeaderWhen purchasing secondhand harvesting machinery, you may buy a full package, header-only or combine only. A used combine can also be sold with a generic pick-up header and it will be up to you to source something specific independently &#; so compatibility will be a major question if buying combine or front attachment separately.
When inspecting a used combine, confirm the header&#;s year, model, make, and size using the serial number. Always verify these numbers with the manufacturer&#;s website, as even minor errors in advertising a header&#;s capacity can put a buyer on the wrong track.
Do your research and thoroughly evaluate the header&#;s suitability for your application. Can it handle a wide range of field conditions? Is it suitable for rocky or uneven ground? Will it capture the right capacity and work efficiently, without grain damage or excessive waste?
Also, check the physical condition of the header and do a thorough visual inspection. Look whether the head is sprung or misaligned, and assess the condition of all the drive mechanisms. How about the state of the hookup, auger, belts, hoses and other attachments? Make sure that no shields or other components are missing.
8. Check the Tyres or TracksTyres have a heavy burden to bear during harvest, so they&#;re an essential item to inspect on a used combine. The steep cost of replacement tyres means overlooking this one can come back to bite you &#; if the tyres or tracks are no longer in good condition, you&#;ll want to deduct that expense from your price.
When the combine runs on rubber tyres or tracks, look for the thread&#;s make, size, and quality. The rims should have no cracks or damage, and the tracks should have no tears or missing rubber.
Also, check for excessive wear of the rollers and drive sprockets. Like the cab&#;s accessories, these parts are also costly to replace, and they will need to be changed before the combine is used. You may also want to see if there are leaks or stress points in the undercarriage.
With the load they carry, tyres can cause severe field compaction when their capacity is incorrect. That&#;s why you should also check on the unit&#;s carrying capacity, the tyre&#;s traction, mobility and stubble wear resistance.
9. Check the Engine and TransmissionLike when buying a used car, it&#;s essential to inspect a combine&#;s engine before purchasing. The combine&#;s transmission should operate smoothly for the unit to run effectively, and any minor issues can escalate quickly once you&#;ve handed over a cheque.
When you&#;re checking a used combine&#;s performance, start it up and drive it forward and backwards, at the minimum. Listen for any unusual sounds, such as grinding and knocking. These noises can indicate something&#;s amiss &#; whether that&#;s a minor maintenance issue or a major fault.
When you turn the machine off, remove and check the filter. If it has been replaced regularly, the filter should appear clean &#; so if it&#;s seriously clogged, something may not be quite right with the service history. The operator&#;s manual should specify what the manufacturer&#;s recommendation is about proper replacement intervals.
Inside the engine compartment, inspect connections closely and look for any leaks from the hoses, hydraulics and the engine. Is the radiator clean? What about the level and odour of the oil? Are there any worn out or cracked hydraulic, coolant and fuel lines? If the machine is in good working order, none of these issues should be present.
You can also verify the unit specifications using the engine plate. While Australia has no current emissions standards on non-road diesel engines, there are plenty of reasons beyond the law to consider environmental impact, including air quality concerns.
Since a combine has many working parts, each should be checked for visible wear and tear. The feeder house is the first port of call &#; scan for chain wear and determine the condition of hydraulics surrounding it. Afterwards, the main body shields need to be removed to check on the sieves, concaves, hydraulic hoses, and pumps.
You should also examine the condition of the grain tank &#; look at grain tank extensions if there are any and take note of their type. Some combine units also feature aftermarket or power-folding extensions, and they should also be scrutinised before buying the machine.
Attachments are a key area to inspect as high-quality attachments will increase the market value significantly.
Check rear attachments next &#; what type of chopper is included? Ensure that there are no missing blades or you will have to replace them. The condition of spreaders is another area you should inspect closely. These key components should all be in good working condition, without visible issues &#; else, you should revise the price you&#;re willing to pay if imminent repairs are needed.
The next step is to inspect side attachments like unloading augers. Check their length is suitable for your standard harvesting set-up and ensure they don&#;t interfere with the header &#; especially if not purchasing combine and front together. Does the auger have the reach you need or will you need an auger extension? Also, are the tubing and spout still in good condition? Consider these during your inspection.
11. Search For Outstanding FinanceWhen purchasing a used combine, be sure to verify whether the unit is still under finance before signing any documents. If the combine has not yet been paid off, it still belongs to the company or individual financing it. Taking this precaution will protect you from buying someone else&#;s debt.
If your potential combine has been registered on the National Equipment Register, you can quickly check if it has an outstanding balance by doing a PIN Code check. This PIN check can also help you identify whether the machinery has ever been registered as stolen. This registration is voluntary, so not all vehicles will be on the register.
You can also check the Personal Property Securities Register (PPSR) with a $2 search. The PPSR is a government-run database of security interests and will indicate whether anyone else has legal possession of the machine you plan to buy. You&#;ll need the VIN, chassis number or manufacturer&#;s number to check the registry. This search will also tell you if the machinery in question has ever been registered as stolen or written off.
12. Dealership vs Private Sale of a Used CombineBuying a used combine through a dealership offers you a range of benefits and can make a big difference to the level of risk involved in purchasing a secondhand harvester.
Dealerships are generally licensed resellers of branded machinery and often have their own service departments. If you have questions about your secondhand combine &#; including availability of parts, whether technology is supported and retrofit compatibility &#; a dealership can provide thorough and reliable answers.
They also have greater knowledge of combines and can recommend the model types suitable for your agricultural needs. Since a dealership&#;s reputation relies on trust and quality, used machinery is thoroughly inspected and valued by an expert mechanic.
Dealerships will often accept equipment trade-ins towards purchasing a larger or more up-to-date model, making the upgrade process much more seamless. And where a private seller is less likely to go out of their way to answer questions and help you get acclimated with your new combine, this kind of customer service is one of the key benefits of buying from a reliable dealership.
Related QuestionsThe total number of hours a combine may last will depend on the type of crop, terrain and soil, acreage and how well the machine is maintained. A combine can potentially run for 4,000-5,000 engine hours and 2,500-3,000 separator hours and still work, while others may reach their capacity at 3,000 engine hours and 2,000 separator hours under harsh conditions. Regular maintenance and replacing worn components can also extend a harvester&#;s lifespan beyond the norm.
How Much Is a Used Combine in ?With such a range of combine classes and sizes, the price of a used combine in varies significantly from one brand to another. Ranging from as little as $10,000 to the $500,000 mark, the average market price of a secondhand harvester is under $200,000, though highly featured models and low-hour machines can attract higher prices.
In general, recent and top-of-the-line models may become more expensive as they can have larger grain tanks, greater horsepower and bigger header capacity. Other factors that may affect the price include the accessories, attachments and other add-ons, including sought-after spreaders and choppers, and any guidance systems already installed.
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